 |
|||
|
|
|||
|
The plug has been made and now the mould for the trikes front fender is laid up using lightweight mat, finished with heavier grade mat. Details in DIY Guide. |
 The full set - 'plug', 'mould' and the trike fenders. Details in DIY Guide. |
 The finished front trike fender all painted and fitted. |
|
 The plug for the rear trike fender has been waxed and polished to a mirror finish and allowed to sit for a day prior to the 'lay-up'. Details in DIY Guide. |
 Laying-up the mould for the rear trike fender. Generally any mould should be twice the thickness of the end product. Details in DIY Guide. |
 'Rolling out' the mould for the rear fender. All layers should be properly rolled-out to break the mat fibres. This allows better shaping to the mould contours and expels air bubbles. |
|
 The finished mould for the rear trike fender is ready for 'break-away' after 24 hrs curing and then given another 48 hrs before use. Details in DIY Guide. |
 Laying-up the rear trike fender. Lightweight matting is used first, then finished with a heavier weight mat. Details in DIY Guide. |
 The finished rear trike fender. Stiffening underneath the fender gives rigidity and mounting. Details in DIY Guide. |
|
